Top 5 Ways to Prepare for an AT Thru-Hike

1-Prepare to be unprepared. After all the dreaming and scheming,
get ready to have all your expectations turned upside down. Your
body isn’t as in shape as you thought it was. You can’t remember all
of the clever landmarks and points of interest you read about. And
nothing is quite the way you envisioned it. It’s like your first day of
High School; overwhelming, exciting and intimidating all at the same
time. You’re probably more ready than you think you are. Get ready
to “get learned”.

2-Train. Everyone has their own system so I’m not going say that
mine is any better than anyone else’s. In my case I hiked for 2 1/2
weeks on the Long Trail in Vermont the summer before and came
out of it looking to strengthen whatever hurt the most. Leading up
to my thru-hike I did six weeks of strength training, six weeks of
endurance training and one week of rest. My knees did fine. My
shoulders didn’t. I still made it.

3-Read Up. It’s extremely helpful to have something to look forward
to at all times. Familiarize yourself with the names of the major
summits, towns and mileages. Other people’s experiences on the
trail will be very different from yours but it’s better to have your ideas
changed and challenged than to have none at all.

4-Attitude/Focus. Not to be confused with either saintliness or
surliness, I prefer to think of it as a balancing act between between
confidence and humility. The trail will provide plenty of opportunities
for both but it’s helpful to think about it ahead of time. What do you
want to accomplish? And what do you want your AT experience to be?

5-Logistics/Resupply. Think through how many days the first few
sections are going to take, what kind of resupply is available and how
much you will need for each section. Think about whether to hike longer
between resupply points or hike a shorter section to lighten your
packweight. Each has its advantages. Even if you wind up ditching
whatever system you started with, you’ll know what your choices are.

Top 5 Things Not to Worry About in Georgia

1-4000’ Summits. It’s a big deal in the Adirondacks and New England.
Here they’re not the be all and end all of the trail. Enjoy but don’t
expect to be blown away.

2-Resupply. It probably SEEMS like a long way to Neel’s Gap but
it’s not. You’re never far from some kind of help or resupply so relax.

3-Gaps. There’s a bunch of them. I know it sounds goofy to northerners
but it’s actually a pretty good desciption. In any case you’ll get used to it.

4-Packweight. Of course you don’t know what you’re doing yet. You’re
only just getting started. Give yourself a break.

5-Mileage. START SLOW and don’t even think about your daily
mileage until Carolina.

Top 5 Things to Enjoy In Georgia

1-Backpacking. Georgia is chocked full of beautiful wooded groves
and along-the-way views. Expect some unexpected groovy treats.

2-Camping Spots. It’s nice to have the shelters for reassurance but
there are so many great places to camp it hardly seems necessary.
Ledges, deep woods, creeks. Nights like this are why you came here.

3-Wilderness. Given the cottage industry that has sprung up around
helping novice hikers you can forget that the road crossings are fewer
and the towns are smaller and/or farther away than they are in most
states on the trail. In its own way the Georgia AT is a pretty wild place.

4-Support Network. I’m sure there are some who just collect war
stories of all the nutty things hikers have done. But there are plenty
more who truly are trail angels. The folks at Walasa-Yi in particular
deserve special mention. It’s a bit like Christmas in the sense that
everyone is giving a little extra. Just stay clear of the cops.

5-The Honeymoon. So what if you don’t know all the tricks of
thru-hiking. You’ve started your journey and that’s HUGE. Give
yourself some credit. Nothing wrong with a little foolish love.


Did you know...
Georgia has the highest low point of any
state on the AT. Three Forks 2530’

Top 5 North Carolina 360' Views That Will CHANGE YOUR LIFE!!!

1-Silers Bald (Nantahala). Georgia was good. Standing Indian
and Albert were even better but Silers is why you walk all those miles
in the woods. Mountains in every direction, a shelter nearby and as the
first 360’ view for northbounders it holds a special place in the thru-
hiker’s journey.

2-Big Bald. Talk about drama. This is the culmination of the section
between Hot Springs and Erwin. In addition to a fabulous view and
magical sunsets there’s water not far from the summit on the north side.
No wonder Hog Greer was so possessive.

3-Max Patch. I had to make a separate trip to see the Patch in its full
glory since I got snow on the summit during my section hike and
detoured around it during my thru-hike (worst mistake of the trip).
It was totally worth it. Smokies to the south, Mt Mitchell and the other
Black Mountains to the east and Balds to the north. Hard to beat.

4-Grassy Ridge. I know, I know. It’s 0.5 from the trail. So is Silers.
This one spreads out the whole section before you like few other summits
can. From Unaka to Roan to Hump. The only thing to spoil the view is
Sugartop, the large monolithic hotel to the Northeast.

5-Hump Mt. Pretty humble name for one of the best mountains in North
Carolina. Not only a great culmination to a truly great section, keep an
eye out to the east for the profile of Grandfather Mountain.

Top 5 Things To Know About North Carolina

1-The Balds. Sorry Virginia, the discussion begins and ends here. The
highlight of the southern AT is the balds and the balds are in Carolina.

2-Elevation. If you didn’t realize you were in the mountains before,
you’ll realize it now. Everything in Carolina is about 1500’ higher
than almost everything else on the AT. Get ready for some serious ups.

3-Punctuation. No, southern grammar still is what it is. What I mean
is that the choices are much clearer where to rest and resupply. Hot
Springs and Nanatahala Outdoor Center are literally on the trail and
Fontana Dam and Erwin, TN might as well be.

4-Alcohol. Most towns along the trail in North Carolina do not sell or
serve alcohol, Hot Springs being the notable exception. While some
have gone to great lengths to try and get around this, going without is
perhaps not the worst thing that could happen.

5-Snow. That’s right. Snow. Get the palm trees and 70' in winter
out of your head. That's Miami. Expect accumulating snow through
March, light amounts through April and even flurries in May on
the summits. The good news is that it melts quickly. The bad news
is that it can be a heavy slushy mess when it does.

Top 5 Most Brutal Ascents in North Carolina

1-Dicks Creek Gap to Muskrat Creek Shelter. Although this may
not have the distinction of being the longest continual ascent on the AT,
I think all the ups and downs make it the hardest. And then when you
finally get to Bly Gap, you’re STILL not finished. Two more nasty
upslopes to welcome you to the Tar Heel state.

>2-Yellow Mt. Just what you didn’t need and just when you didn’t
need it. A stiff climb when you can practically taste a delicious dinner
in Fontana Village.

3-Cheoah Bald. The good news is NOC fed you good. The bad
news is you can NOT get your legs to move going up this interminable
mountain. A viewpoint and a shelter help a little but it just seems to
take forever.
>4-Snowbird Mt. The relief of being out of the Smokies is quickly
tempered by a long rough ascent of a mountain loved more by the
FAA than most hikers.

5-Rich Mt. Maybe Hot Springs wasn’t all you thought it was going
to be. It’s still hard to pull yourself away from ‘the town you needed
most’ after a long time without one. For most, the ascent of Rich Mt
is a test of willpower just to keep going.

Honorable Mention: Albert Mt. I don’t even know why it’s hard.
You’re way up high already and it’s not that long an ascent. It just is.

Top 5 Along-the-Way Views in North Carolina

1-The Ridgepole. Between Carter Gap Shelter and Albert Mt there
are two viewpoints to the southeast that are truly magnificent. One is
on a level stretch surrounded by Rhododendron from which there’s a
short side trail. The other is a traverse on a narrow shelf.

2-Old Black. There’s a grassy level stretch with a heart-stopping view
of the Sterling Ridge intersecting the main ridgeline of the Smokies and
the valley below. I think I have the name right although it could be
Crosby Knob.

3-Lamb’s Knoll. Northbounders are so excited about getting to Hot
Springs that they often overlook the unique pines and sandy soil. Few
will miss the views into the deep divide between the ridges as the trail
winds its way down into town.

4-Lover’s Leap. The cliffs and outlooks go on for quite a while
giving one several chances to gaze longingly back at Hot Springs.

5-Firescald. This is a torturous twisting and knobby affair that I
absolutely loved in spite of the fact that it was about a million degrees
the day I hiked it.

Top 5 Most Annoying Viewless Summits in North Carolina

1-Courthouse Bald. The annoying climax to a difficult climb.
2-Unaka Mt. This mountain got a range named after it?
3-Butt Mt. The name is either the best or worst thing about it.
I can’t decide.
4-Bluff Mt. All that work. And the reward? Trees I could have
seen anywhere else.
5-Love Mt. I still haven’t figured out why I didn’t cheat and take the
road from Clingman’s.

Top 5 Non 360’ views in North Carolina

1-Standing Indian. Don’t blame the descriptions for being wrong.
It’s hard to describe. I couldn’t figure out where Springer Mt or the
Standing Indian was and I still loved this mountain to death.

2-Cheoah Bald. It’s a long way up and the name raises false
expectations. Still with any visibility at all it’s got quite a view.
Hit it at sunrise or sunset and you’re really in for a treat.

3-Rockytop. Clingman’s may be higher but this was my favorite
in the western Smokies. The only thing that obscures the view is
the slightly higher peak of Thunderhead farther north on the AT.

4-Round Bald. Yes this one is actually bald. It doesn’t have a
360’ view because it sits between two higher mountains (Roan &
Grassy Ridge). It looks down upon a sea of lower peaks to the east
and it’s a taste of things to come further north in this section.

5-Beauty Spot. Not quite a summit. Not quite an along-the-way
view. It’s a destination unto itself in the shadow of Unaka Mt with a
wide view to the southwest.

Honorable Mention-The Jump-Up.

Top 5 "I'm So Conflicted" Towers in North Carolina

On the one hand, there’s no view without the tower.
On the other hand, it’s constricting and doesn’t have the
same feel as a natural summit view. I’m SO conflicted!

1-Wayah Bald. The stone tower is beautiful in and of itself and the
view is a knockout even though it’s basically a repeat of Silers Bald.

2-Albert Mt. The mountain itself is so unique you come to expect
the unexpected. A long graceful ridge atop a death-defying dropoff.
Pretty hard to complain.

3-Wesser Bald. In this case I liked the natural feel of the open
wooden platform more than I liked the view. You’re still too far
away to get a well defined look at the Smokies.

4-Clingmans Dome. This one just didn’t do it for me and I went
back twice to make sure I wasn’t just having a bad day. There really
ought to be something to look at but all I could focus on was the tower
itself and the thick canopy of trees around it.

5-Rich Mt. Neither a nice tower nor an impressive view. Perhaps it
suffers in comparison to the other highlights in this section. In any case,
the picnic table and the water source were more relevant than the tower.

Top 5 Summit Camping Spots in North Carolina

1-Max Patch. Show stopping view (see description above), good water
supply and a large open area.

2-Big Bald. I want my ashes scattered from there.

3-Standing Indian. Despite not having a 360’ view, it’s a stunning look
at the sharp contours of ‘the land of the noonday sun’.

4-Cheoah Bald. No water so you have to lug it up from below.
Well worth it on a clear evening.

5-Silers Bald. Fabulous spot if you can make it work mileage-wise.

The 3 Most Over-Rated Things About North Carolina

Great Smoky Mountains National Park. That’s right. Never mind
that Acadia, Yellowstone and Yosemite also claim to be the most visited
National Park. I found the permitting system irritating, the contour profile
misleading and the scenery disappointing since most of the time you’re
walking on what mountains there are to look at.

Hot Springs. It’s not really the town’s fault that hikers have been in
the woods too long by the time they come stumbling in with visions of pizza
and being pampered. The services that cater specifically to hikers are pretty
good. The rest can be anything from inconsistent (why does a library need
to close on Wednesday?) to downright disappointing (lot of empty shelves
in that grocery store).

Mountains Named Bald. Talk about getting my hopes up. There are
whole sections and ranges named Bald. Instead we get the “Rogaine
Balds”, viewless wooded humps that test the hiker’s patience as much
as their strength.

Top 5 Side Trails in North Carolina

1-Grassy Ridge. I’m not even sure why this isn’t part of the AT.
The views are stunning and being the only 360’ view over 6000’
does make a difference.

2-Ravens Rocks. I completely missed this on my thru-hike. The
trail is a few yards south of the trail to the Muskrat Creek Shelter on
the opposite side of the AT. It’s more of a good view than a great one
in a place where positive reinforcement really helps.

3-Bluff Mt. About a mile south of the summit there is a grassy
meadow that runs parallel to the trail. If you take the side trail across
it and follow the ATV track up the other side there is a very nice
subsidiary bald with a good view back to Max Patch.

4-Camp Creek Bald. I know the towers are ugly and I’m glad the
AT doesn’t go there but it’s still one of my favorite lunch spots.

5-Mt Cammerer. The view across to Mt Sterling and into Walnut
Bottoms is amazing. The Tennessee side is flat as a board and best
saved for high visibility conditions.

Top 5 Sections in North Carolina

You could probably make a good case for just about any order
depending on what you value most or find the most annoying.
I only seek to enlighten.

1-Hot Springs to Erwin. The most features with the least amount of
trauma. Lovers Leap at one end, a dramatic view down to the
Nolichucky at the other . Little treats along the way like White Rocks
and Blackstack Cliffs, Firescald and Butt Mountain with the stunning
finale of Big Bald. Tough as it is to leave Hot Spings, this section is
the reward.

2-Erwin to Elk Park. The only downside to this section is the
twenty miles of not very much between Beauty Spot and Carvers Gap.
After Carvers, it’s magnificent with Round Bald, Grassy Ridge and
the Humps in quick succession. As a bonus, the Overmountain Shelter
is worth the side trip either as a lunch spot or an overnight.

3-Dicks Creek Gap to NOC. Extraordinarily beautiful but very
tough. Assuming you haven’t expired hiking in and out of Bly Gap
the Standing Indian portion is a gem. Follow that with a Siler, Wayah
and Wesser Balds and thru-hiking doesn’t seem that crazy after all.

4-The Smokies. You’ve probably guessed by now that as much as I
love the rest of the Carolina AT, I’m not a fan of the Smokies. They
still have their better moments. The wildlife and the flowers. The
outlooks, sidelooks and overlooks. Both the trail and the mountains
themselves are unique. And their cultural importance to the region
should not be overlooked.

5-Davenport Gap to Hot Springs. Can you say Max Patch? The
rest of the section isn’t stupendous but then again, it isn’t horrible either.
Walking in the woods can offer more variety than you might think
especially here. And if that doesn’t work for you, there’s Hot Springs.

North Carolina Photos

Tennessee Top 5s

Top 5 Things About Tennessee

1-Laurel Fork Gorge. I hadn’t really given it much thought until I
got there so I’m not sure what I expected. Suffice it to say that
it’s every bit as unique and interesting as advertised. What
starts as a river walk quickly morphs into a climbing challenge
as you make your way along a narrow shelf next to the river.

2-Erwin. I’m totally stretching my definitions here by including
Erwin while everything else is limited to the ‘Tennessee Only’
section of the trail. I can’t help it. I love Erwin and Erwin
is in Tennessee. Special mention must be made of Miss Janet
who gives her heart and soul to the thru-hiking community
every year in running the hostel that bears her name.

3-Vandeventer Shelter. It's a long steady climb up from the
reservoir and the water source is a huge pain but it’s got a
great view of the Watauga Reservoir and can be especially
beautiful at night looking down on the scattered lights in
the hills below.

4-Elk River Relo. This was a different route than it was when I
made my thru-hike and what an improvement. Two exceptional
campsites, some great outlooks along a high dirt road and a
very nice river walk.

5-Damascus Dash. Whether you measure it from Route 321 in
Hampton or the Vandeventer Shelter, this is your big chance to
put the hammer down and try for some serious mileage on the
way to Damascus. Once along the ridge of Iron Mt there are
only minor changes in elevation for the next 30 or so miles.

Top 5 Most Annoying Things About Tennessee

1-Tennessee Rollercoaster. Between Laurel Fork and White
Rocks Mt the ups and downs are unrelenting. No views.
No sidehills. No mercy.

2-Concrete Shelters. The maintaining clubs didn’t have
much choice in the matter since the wooden shelters had the
unfortunate habit of burning down. Still it’s a shame that
such hard feelings led to soviet style shelters lacking any
kind of warmth.

3-Pond Flats. Who was the genius who routed the trail over this thing? For ten minutes of exciting ascent
out of Laurel Fork Gorge we have to endure this brutal climb to
a viewless flat and an uninspired campsite. I don’t get it.

4-Iron Mt Ascent. If the hellish industrial Watauga Lake Dam
wasn’t enough for you, there’s the interminable climb up Iron Mt.
to complete your quota for self-punishment.

5-Watauga Reservoir Access. I admit it. I’m spoiled. I see a
nice lake with a nice beach and I want to go for a swim.
Sadly, there is little access to the lake past where local
folks like to use it making it uncomfortable and intrusive
to take a dip. Sigh.